How to Backpack Egypt Independently: A Budget Travel Guide

Egypt is one of the most fascinating countries in the world, home to ancient temples, bustling cities, and stunning desert landscapes. Yet, most travellers experience it through organised tours or all-inclusive resorts, assuming independent travel is too difficult or overwhelming. But here’s the truth: you don’t need a tour to experience Egypt fully. In this travel guide, I’ll show you how to backpack Egypt independently on a budget, including detailed itineraries for first-time visitors, tips on how to avoid expensive tours, and the best ways to get around. Whether you’re visiting Cairo, Luxor, or the Sinai Peninsula, this post will help you explore Egypt on your own terms.

For a month, I backpacked across the country using public transportation, staying in hostels and guesthouses, and exploring all the ancient sites on my own terms. From the bustling and chaotic streets of Cairo to the remote beauty of Siwa Oasis, the timeless wonders of Luxor and Aswan, and the laid-back shores of Dahab, I discovered that Egypt can be done independently even as a solo female traveller.

Is Independent Travel in Egypt for Everyone?

I won’t sugar-coat it – Egypt is, unexpectedly, the hardest country I’ve ever travelled to. And I say this as someone who has wandered through remote places with very little tourism infrastructure. Usually, that’s what makes a destination tough. But in Egypt? The problem isn’t the lack of infrastructure but the wrong kind of infrastructure. Everything is built around tour groups, where guides seamlessly usher tourists from one overpriced scam to the next. Try breaking out of that mould, and suddenly, the simplest tasks become exhausting battles of willpower.

Want to take a taxi? Prepare to negotiate like your life depends on it. Need a bottle of water? Somehow, you’ll be quoted a price that makes you question the economy. Fancy a peaceful stroll along the Nile? Good luck – within five seconds, you’ll be dodging relentless sales pitches and unsolicited “felucca rides” that are definitely not free.

So yes, independent travel in Egypt is completely possible and, in my experience, safe. But it’s also relentlessly exhausting. The constant haggling, the scams lurking around every corner, and the general state of constant glorious chaos will test your patience like nowhere else. If you’re an experienced traveller used to navigating tricky destinations, you’ll probably manage just fine. But if Egypt is your first solo trip? Maybe start with something a little… gentler.

That said, the rewards of travelling independently almost make all the struggles worth it. Without being tied to a tour schedule, you’ll have the freedom to experience Egypt’s most breathtaking temples and sites without the crowds. While busloads of tourists descend at peak hours, you’ll be exploring in near solitude – wandering through the towering columns of Karnak Temple at sunrise, standing before Abu Simbel in the stillness of early morning, or finding yourself alone in a 3,000-year-old tomb in the Valley of the Kings.

So if you’re up for the challenge, backpacking Egypt can be an incredibly rewarding experience. And in this guide, I’ll share everything I learnt to help you navigate it as smoothly as possible, without blowing your budget on overpriced, and quite honestly, very rubbish tours.

How to Get Around Egypt on a Budget

Train – The railway runs from Alexandria to Aswan, following the Nile, so the views can be quite spectacular. However, it’s not the most recommended option if you’re on a budget.

Buses – This was my preferred mode of transport while backpacking in Egypt. The bus network is extensive, and buses are affordable, comfortable, with AC, and often quite empty, so I usually had the row to myself. I mostly used the travel company GoBus. The buses were modern and clean. They offer different classes, and the business class has extra legroom, which can be really useful on those long bus rides.

Local Mini-Buses – These are the local crowded, white minivans. There’s no set schedule: they only depart when full. They’re very affordable, but definitely not as comfortable. However, in some more remote areas, they’re the only way to get around. Sometimes, they’ll tell you that tourists can’t travel on these because it’s not safe. I suspect this is just another scam to make you pay for the more expensive private transfers, which follow exactly the same route as the public minibuses.

Taxis – Whatever price they tell you is usually inflated. If you’re like me and dislike bargaining all the time, I’d recommend downloading the app inDrive. I used it across most of Egypt, and I never had an issue with drivers trying to overcharge me.

Budget and Daily Costs

I travelled independently in Egypt for a month and spent an average of 35€ per day. My trip wasn’t on an extreme budget; I chose slightly nicer accommodations (if you’re travelling with someone, your accommodation costs will be nearly half), occasionally treated myself to better meals, and visited most major sites and activities. Despite this, I found Egypt to be an affordable destination, proving that your dream trip doesn’t have to break the bank.

To give you an idea of typical expenses in February/March 2025, here’s a breakdown of what I spent. Disclaimer: You can travel even cheaper by staying in budget accommodation or couchsurfing and eating exclusively at local eateries. Pro tip: take your Student Card for significant discounts on entry to historical sites.

How to Visit Cairo Independently

For most backpackers, Cairo is likely where your Egyptian adventure begins and it’s a city that throws you straight into the deep end. Easily one of the most chaotic cities in the world, Cairo never slows down. Walking its streets can feel overwhelming, with relentless honking at all hours, thick air pollution, and traffic so wild that crossing the road feels like a leap of faith – traffic lights and pedestrian crossings are practically non-existent.

Things to Do in Cairo Independently

Beneath the chaos, Cairo is a city of incredible history and culture, where ancient wonders stand alongside the energy of modern life. There’s enough to keep you busy for weeks, but if you only have a few days, here are some must-see highlights.

Where to Stay in Cairo on a Budget

Cairo has plenty of hotels and hostels to suit all budgets, but choosing the right area can make a big difference to your experience.

Staying in Giza for a night can be convenient if you want to visit the Pyramids of Giza early in the morning. Giza itself is quite run-down, not the cleanest, and full of pushy vendors and scammers, so be prepared for people persistently trying to sell you things.

For a more immersive experience, I’d recommend staying in downtown Cairo for at least a few nights. It’s chaotic, but it gives you a real feel for the city’s energy. A great budget-friendly option is Dahab Hostel, one of the oldest backpacker hostels in the city. It has a fantastic rooftop terrace where you can take in Cairo’s madness from the comfort of the seventh floor, and it’s one of the few places in Egypt where you’ll easily meet other independent travellers.

Where to Eat

Cairo, like any major capital, offers an endless array of food options from diverse cuisines. Egypt’s national dish, koshary is a hearty mix of rice, lentils, pasta, and chickpeas, topped with tangy tomato sauce and crispy fried onions. If you’re looking to try it, one of the most famous spots is at Koshary Abou Tarek. It’s an affordable and filling local favourite.

How to Visit Alexandria Independently

After the chaos of Cairo, Alexandria offers a refreshing change of pace. Located on the Mediterranean coast, Egypt’s second-largest city is full of history, with a Greco-Roman heritage, seaside charm, and a more relaxed atmosphere. While little remains of its ancient wonders, Alexandria still has plenty to offer travellers looking for culture, history, a glimpse of local life by the sea, and a great place to try all sorts of seafood.

How to Get There on a Budget

Getting from Cairo to Alexandria is straightforward, with multiple buses and trains available each day. Trains are typically more expensive than buses, so I opted for a bus (company GoBus), which cost 210 EGP (around 4€).

Things to Do in Alexandria Independently

Visit Siwa Oasis Independently

After the chaos and hustle of Egyptian cities, Siwa Oasis feels like a world apart. Tucked away in the Western Desert near the Libyan border, the tranquility of this remote oasis is a haven of palm groves, salt lakes, and ancient fortresses. Rich in Berber culture and home to some of Egypt’s most stunning desert landscapes, Siwa offers travellers a chance to slow down, soak in natural hot springs, and explore a side of Egypt far removed from the usual tourist trail.

How to Get There

The only bus company that operates direct routes to Siwa is West Delta Bus, with services from both Cairo and Alexandria.

Things to Do in Siwa

There’s surprisingly a lot to do in Siwa and it was my favourite place in all of Egypt. Read all the practical information on this travel guide: How to visit Siwa Oasis Independently.

How to Visit Luxor Independently

Luxor is often described as the world’s greatest open-air museum, and it’s easy to see why. Once the heart of ancient Thebes, this city on the banks of the Nile is home to some of Egypt’s most spectacular temples and tombs. From the grand columns of Karnak to the hidden chambers of the Valley of the Kings, history feels alive here. But beyond its rich history, Luxor also offers stunning Nile views, markets, and unique experiences like hot air balloon rides over the desert.

How to Get There on a Budget

There are plenty of ways to reach Luxor, including day trains, night trains, and various bus companies. I took a 10-hour night bus from Cairo with GoBus, which cost me around €10. It was a budget-friendly option, but if you prefer more comfort, the sleeper train is also a popular choice, although a lot more expensive too.

Things to Do in Luxor Independently

Here are some of the highlights. To get a better understanding read my extensive guide on How to Visit Luxor Independently.

How to Visit Aswan Independently

Aswan is a gateway to ancient wonders like the majestic temples of Philae and Abu Simbel. Beyond its archaeological treasures, the city offers a glimpse into Nubian culture, with vibrant villages, traditional felucca sailing on the Nile, and bustling souqs. Whether exploring its rich history, cruising the Nile at sunset, or simply relax, Aswan is a destination that captivates travellers.

How to Get There on a Budget

Since Aswan is a major tourist destination, I assumed getting there from Luxor would be easy, but I was wrong. I explain the long story of how I got to Aswan here.

Things to Do in Aswan Independently

Aswan itself has plenty to offer, but it’s also a great base for day trips to some incredible nearby sites. Here are some of the highlights but for more information read How to Visit Aswan Independently.

Back to Luxor: Kom Ombo and Edfu Temples Detour

After spending a few days in Aswan, it was time to face the dreaded journey back to Luxor. Still traumatised from the previous train ride, I needed an alternative.

I had planned to visit some temples along the way, but by this point, I already knew how difficult it would be to do it independently. Luckily, the hostel I was staying in Aswan offered a transport option for $20, which included a van ride to Luxor with stops at Kom Ombo and Edfu Temples. It was by far the best choice, much cheaper than the train, and I’d finally get to visit these temples without the usual hassle.

Kom Ombo Temple

Kom Ombo Temple is one of Egypt’s most unique temples. It’s dedicated to two gods: Sobek, the crocodile god, and Horus the Elder. Standing on the banks of the Nile, this symmetrical temple was built during the Ptolemaic period and is divided into two identical sections, each devoted to one of the deities. What makes Kom Ombo even more fascinating is its connection to ancient medicine, with carvings depicting surgical instruments and medical practices from thousands of years ago.

The temple also features a Nileometer, an ancient device used to measure the river’s water levels and predict floods, which played a crucial role in managing agriculture. Nearby, the Crocodile Museum showcases a collection of mummified crocodiles, highlighting the sacred role these creatures once played in Egyptian mythology.

Edfu Temple

Edfu Temple, dedicated to the falcon-headed god Horus, is one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt. Built between 237 and 57 BC, it remains remarkably intact, with towering walls covered in intricate hieroglyphs that depict the eternal battle between Horus and his uncle Seth. The temple’s grand entrance is flanked by massive statues of Horus, and inside, visitors can explore the hypostyle hall, sacred chambers, and the sanctuary that once housed the god’s statue. Edfu Temple also provides valuable insights into ancient Egyptian religious rituals, as its inscriptions detail ceremonies and offerings made to Horus.

How to Visit Sinai Peninsula Independently

The Sinai Peninsula, located at the meeting point of Africa and Asia, is home to some of Egypt’s most stunning coastal destinations, including Dahab and Sharm El-Sheikh. Known for its crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral reefs, and world-class diving and snorkelling, it’s a paradise for underwater enthusiasts and adventurers alike.

How to Get There on a Budget

It’s fairly easy to reach the Sinai Peninsula from Cairo, with many buses running to both Sharm el-Sheikh and Dahab. I took an 8-hour night bus with GoBus, which cost 420 EGP (around €7.60).

What to Do in the Sinai Peninsula

The Sinai Peninsula is a fascinating region with a mix of stunning landscapes, historical sites, and incredible diving spots. These are some of the highlights to visit but check my detailed guide on How to Visit the Sinai Peninsula Independently.

Suggested Itineraries for Backpackers

1-Week Itinerary: Cairo and Luxor (Orange)

Spend the first 3 days exploring Cairo, where you’ll visit the iconic Giza Pyramids, the Sphinx, the Egyptian Museum, and wander through the historic streets of Old Cairo and the bustling Khan el-Khalili bazaar. On day 4, travel to Luxor by flight, train or bus. The next 2 days are dedicated to Luxor’s East and West Banks, home to breathtaking temples like Karnak and Luxor, the Valley of the Kings, and the Temple of Hatshepsut. The last day is to make your way back to Cairo for departure.

2-Week Itinerary: Cairo, Luxor, and Aswan (Orange + Green)

Spend the first 3 days in Cairo, exploring highlights like the Giza Pyramids, the Sphinx, the Egyptian Museum, and the historic quarters of Islamic and Coptic Cairo. On day 4, travel to Luxor by plane, train or bus. The next 3 days are dedicated to Luxor, where you’ll explore the East and West Banks, including Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, the Valley of the Kings, and the Temple of Hatshepsut. From there, continue south to Aswan for 4 to 5 days, where you can unwind by the Nile, visit Philae Temple, the Nubian villages, and take a day trip to the magnificent Abu Simbel. On your way back to Luxor, stop to explore the temples of Kom Ombo and Edfu before returning to Cairo for your final night.

3-Week or more Itinerary: My Itinerary (Orange + Green + Purple)

With 3 weeks or more in Egypt, you’ll be able to experience the country’s incredible diversity. I was there for a month and this was roughly my itinerary.

Start your journey in Cairo, exploring the iconic pyramids, vibrant neighbourhoods, and world-class museums. Then head north to Alexandria for a glimpse of Egypt’s Mediterranean charm and Greco-Roman heritage. From there, journey west to the remote Siwa Oasis, where mud-brick villages, palm-filled landscapes, and ancient oracle temples offer a peaceful desert escape. Return to Cairo before travelling south to Luxor and Aswan. There you’ll explore the grand temples, royal tombs, and riverside villages along the Nile, perhaps even stopping at Kom Ombo and Edfu Temples on the way. End your adventure in the Sinai Peninsula, where you can unwind by the Red Sea in Dahab or Sharm El Sheikh before flying out from there.