How to Visit the Sinai Peninsula Independently: Budget Guide

Nestled at the crossroads of Africa and Asia, the Sinai Peninsula is a land of contrasts, where rugged mountains meet endless deserts and the azure waters of the Red Sea. For those seeking adventure off the beaten path, it’s possible to explore Sinai independently. This travel guide covers everything you need to know about visiting the Sinai Peninsula independently, including the best ways to get there, where to stay, and the top attractions to experience on a budget.

The dramatic landscape, steeped in history and mysticism, has drawn pilgrims, adventurers, and explorers for centuries. From the towering peaks of Mount Sinai, where Moses is said to have received the Ten Commandments, to the ancient monasteries tucked into its hills, the Sinai Peninsula offers a unique blend of spiritual significance and natural beauty. With its diverse ecosystems, from the coral reefs beneath the waves to the vast arid expanses, Sinai remains a captivating destination for those seeking both adventure and tranquility.

How to Get to Sinai Independently

It’s fairly easy to reach the Sinai Peninsula from Cairo, with many buses running to both Sharm el-Sheikh and Dahab. I took an 8-hour night bus with GoBus, which cost 420 EGP (around €7.60). However, be prepared for a major military checkpoint when entering Sinai which is more like a border crossing. Everyone had to get off the bus with their belongings, pass them through security scanners, and wait while the empty bus was inspected. Even after entering Sinai, there were multiple additional checkpoints along the way. But if you’re expecting to sleep through the journey, think again – between the frequent stops and security checks, I barely got any rest.

Where to Go in Sinai Peninsula on a Budget

Dahab

Dahab is a laid-back coastal town on the Sinai Peninsula, known for its world-class diving spots, and relaxed bohemian vibe. Once a small Bedouin fishing village, it has transformed into a haven for backpackers, divers, and adventure seekers looking for a more peaceful alternative. Explore underwater wonders, or embark on adventures like kitesurfing, snorkelling, and hiking in the surrounding mountains.

Blue Hole and Blue Lagoon

The Blue Hole in Dahab is one of Egypt’s most famous dive sites. Renowned for its strikingly deep, vertical sinkhole that plunges over 100 metres into the Red Sea. While technical divers push their limits here, snorkelers can still admire the vibrant coral and marine life along the shallower rim.

Just a whole adventure journey away, the Blue Lagoon offers a stark contrast to the drama of the Blue Hole. A tranquil paradise of shallow, turquoise waters, the lagoon is a haven for relaxation and water sports. Far removed from the bustle of Dahab, the Blue Lagoon retains a raw, untouched beauty, with simple beach huts dotting the shoreline and an atmosphere of complete serenity.

While the Blue Hole is easily accessible by car from Dahab, reaching the Blue Lagoon is a different story. With no direct road access, I opted for a snorkelling tour organised by my hostel – seemingly the most convenient way to visit both spots. But as with many things in Egypt, “organisation” turned out to be a loose concept.

From the start, the tour was a chaotic mess. Our so-called guide barely acknowledged us, offering no introduction, no itinerary, and certainly no explanations of where we were going or what to expect. We were herded from one place to the next in complete confusion, shuffled onto the floor of a rickety boat after the Blue Hole with no idea where we were heading. The boat took us further along the coast, where we were then crammed into the back of a pickup truck and jolted through the dusty desert towards the Blue Lagoon. Supposedly, this was a full-day tour that included lunch, but, unsurprisingly, no food ever materialised.

Now, I’m not a picky traveller. I enjoy a bit of unpredictability and the occasional rough adventure. But not when I pay $45 for what was an absolute disaster. For a budget backpacker, that’s a hefty price tag, and you’d at least expect a half-decent experience in return. Instead, it was clear that the only thing this tour cared about was our money, not our experience. I’m not exaggerating when I say our guide didn’t even offer a basic briefing: Nothing! He spent the entire day chatting with other guides, who were just as indifferent to their own groups.

At the end of it all, I realised something: no matter how much you pay, these tours are all the same: disorganised, overpriced, and utterly underwhelming. I wouldn’t recommend them. However, if you’re into diving, Dahab is still a good place to go, with world-class dive sites and it would probably be a more rewarding experience.

Mount Sinai

Mount Sinai (Jebel Musa) is a spiritually significant peak known for its association with the biblical story of Moses receiving the Ten Commandments. The hike to the summit can be done in two ways. The first is via the Camel Path (a longer but gentler route) and the second the steeper Steps of Repentance (over 3,700 steps carved into the rock). It offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding desert, mountains, and Red Sea.

At the base of Mount Sinai, there’s the St. Catherine’s Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The monastery, which dates back to the 6th century, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited Christian monasteries in the world. It’s an essential stop for those visiting the area with its impressive architecture and ancient manuscripts.

Due to security concerns in certain areas of the Sinai Peninsula, independent travel to Mount Sinai is not permitted. Therefore, all visitors are required to join an organised tour. This is primarily to ensure the safety of travellers, as the region has experienced occasional instability in the past. That said, most of the tours are during the night in order to catch the breathtaking sunrise from the top.

Sharm El-Sheik

Sharm El-Sheikh, located at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, is a town known for its stunning beaches, crystal-clear waters, and luxurious resorts. While it offers a picturesque escape, it’s not my kind of place. It doesn’t feel authentically Egyptian and feels more like any other high-end resort town full of Europeans. Plus, staying there can be quite pricey, making it less appealing for those on a budget.

Much like Dahab, Sharm El-Sheikh is renowned for its world-class diving and snorkelling opportunities. Some of the best coral reefs in the world are in Ras Mohammed National Park and the famous Naama Bay. Whether you’re an experienced diver or a beginner, there’s something for everyone in these vibrant, biodiverse waters.

Where to Stay in Sinai on a Budget

For budget-conscious backpackers, I recommend staying in Dahab, where you’ll find a range of relaxed and welcoming hostels. In addition, many of the hostels double as dive centres if you’re interested in exploring the underwater world.

If you’re looking for something more luxurious and aren’t concerned about budget, then Sharm El-Sheikh would be a better fit. It offers a wide selection of upscale resorts.

Where to Eat

You’ll find a variety of options catering to all tastes and budgets. In Dahab, there are numerous casual eateries and beachfront cafes where you can enjoy delicious, freshly prepared local dishes. Many places serve traditional Egyptian meals such as koshari and ta’ameya (Egyptian falafel), as well as seafood caught fresh from the Red Sea. For a more high-end experience, head to one of the many seaside restaurants and hipster cafes, which offer stunning views over the water.

Final Thoughts

The Sinai Peninsula offers world-class coral reefs and dive sites perfect for underwater exploration. However, if you’re not diving, you might find yourself getting a bit bored. I enjoyed my time in Dahab for a few days, soaking in the peacefulness and relaxing. But the experience there feels quite different from the rest of Egypt, it doesn’t feel like Egypt at all. In both Dahab and Sharm El-Sheikh, I felt like I had crossed into another country. These towns are full of Europeans on short holidays. While Dahab attracts a more laid-back, hipster, barefoot crowd, Sharm El-Sheikh is filled with the typical sunburnt European tourists sporting resort bracelets.

This isn’t the kind of place I usually gravitate towards. I prefer destinations where I can immerse myself in the local culture, which is almost non-existent here. In my opinion, luxurious resorts represent everything that’s wrong with the travel industry. These tourists who boast about visiting a foreign country but spend their entire time by a resort pool, in towns where locals don’t even go unless they work in the resorts. For me, that’s not truly travelling. If you’re not immersing yourself in the chaos, connecting with local people, and eating the food that might even make you sick, then what’s the point? Anyway, rant over. Dahab is a fine place if you want to dive or get certified. But if you’re looking for an authentic travel experience, it’s definitely not the place.

Want to Continue to Explore Egypt Independently?

If you’re planning a solo adventure across Egypt and want more tips, itineraries, and budget travel advice, check out my How to Backpack Egypt Independently: A Budget Travel Guide. This comprehensive guide includes all the information you need to travel Egypt on your own, from must-see sites to tips on getting around on a budget. Whether you’re exploring the Pyramids in Giza, discovering the remote Siwa Oasis, or relaxing in Aswan, this guide will help you make the most of your Egyptian adventure.