Nestled along the banks of the Nile in Southern Egypt, Aswan offers a much slower and more serene atmosphere, making it the perfect place to unwind while exploring its rich heritage. This guide will show you how to visit Aswan independently and on a budget and you’ll learn how to experience this beautiful destination without relying on expensive tours.
As the gateway to Nubia, the city is deeply connected to the ancient civilisation that once thrived here, with remarkable temples, stunning river views, and a vibrant Nubian presence that adds to its unique charm. The Nubians, an indigenous people with a history stretching back thousands of years, have preserved their distinct language, traditions, and colourful architecture. Visiting a Nubian village offers a glimpse into their rich culture and traditions, with brightly painted houses, and warm hospitality.
- Sunset Views from Elephantine Island
- Feluccas sailing on the Nile in Aswan
- Sunset over the Nile in Aswan
How to Get to Aswan on a Budget
Since Aswan is a major tourist destination, I assumed getting there from Luxor would be easy. But I couldn’t have been more wrong. When I checked the usual bus companies, there didn’t seem to be any routes, except for one sketchy bus company at 6 AM. I quickly realised that most of the infrastructure is geared toward steering tourists onto expensive Nile cruises, which were way out of my budget. So, I had to find a cheaper way to get to Aswan, which turned out to be harder than expected.
After missing the 6 AM bus (which I hadn’t imagined would be the only one on such a popular route), my options were limited: incredibly expensive private transfers, taking the train, or trying to find a local public minivan. The local minivans were quickly ruled out – not because they don’t exist, but because tourists are supposedly not “allowed” to take them due to safety concerns. I’m quite sure this is complete bullshit and just a way to push foreigners into overpriced private transfers that follow the exact same road. I even met a girl who managed to get into one of these minivans, only to have the driver tell her to hide at every police checkpoint.
With the private transfer out of my budget, the train was my last resort. I had read online that there were plenty of trains between Luxor and Aswan, so I went to the train station at 11 AM, expecting to find some midday option. Instead, I was told the only train was at 7 PM, which I found very hard to believe. But with no other choice and an increasing desperation to leave Luxor (at this point, I was sick of it and wanted out at any cost), I bought a ticket. A ridiculously overpriced one ($36), which gave me a brutal introduction to Egypt’s railway system. And let me tell you, it was an experience I wouldn’t recommend. Seriously, find ANY other option.
Things to Do in Aswan Independently
Aswan itself has plenty to offer, but it’s also a great base for day trips to some incredible nearby sites. However, I have to admit that after arriving from Luxor, I felt mentally drained from all the scams and pushy vendors. I desperately needed a break. So instead of going on a hectic sightseeing spree, I took things slow—spending my days reading by the Nile at my hostel and later moving to Elephantine Island for an even more peaceful atmosphere.
That said, if you’re ready to explore, here are some of the highlights to check out between your moments of relaxation!
Abu Simbel
For most travellers, the main reason to come to Aswan is the day trip to Abu Simbel. Originally, my plan was to find public transport and stay overnight, but after arriving in Egypt and realising how frustratingly difficult it is to do anything independently, I quickly abandoned that idea.
Everything is set up to push tourists into tours, and finding public transport was nearly impossible. On top of that, budget accommodation options in Abu Simbel seemed scarce, probably because almost no one stays there overnight. Honestly, I just couldn’t be bothered to spend hours figuring it out. Instead, I went with the private transport arranged by my hostel for $20, which, compared to other overpriced tours, actually seemed like a pretty good deal.
Abu Simbel is one of Egypt’s most awe-inspiring archaeological sites, located near the Sudanese border on the western bank of Lake Nasser. Built by Ramses II in the 13th century BC, the site consists of two massive rock-cut temples designed to showcase his power and divine status. The Great Temple is dedicated to Ramses II himself and features four colossal statues of the pharaoh, each standing over 20 metres tall. Inside, intricately carved reliefs depict his military victories. The smaller temple, dedicated to Queen Nefertari, is equally impressive, with six statues at its entrance (four of Ramses and two of Nefertari).
- The Great Temple dedicated to Ramses II
- Smaller Temple dedicated to Queen Nefertari
- Details of the Statues of the Great Temple
- Inside the Great Temple
- The Great Temple
One of the most fascinating aspects of Abu Simbel is its relocation in the 1960s. When the construction of the Aswan High Dam threatened to submerge the temples, UNESCO led a massive engineering project. They cut and moved them block by block to their current location, 65 metres higher and 200 metres further inland.
Philae Temple: Why I Skipped It
Philae Temple, dedicated to the goddess Isis, is one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt. Located on Agilkia Island in the Nile, it can only be reached by boat. While I had every intention of visiting, I ultimately decided to skip it. Just like many other travellers I met in Aswan, I couldn’t be bothered with yet another exhausting negotiation.
Getting there is unnecessarily complicated. Since the temple is on an island, you have to hire a boat from the marina. But instead of a standard ticket system, you’re expected to rent an entire boat rather than just pay for a seat. Logic would suggest splitting the cost with other travellers, but the boatmen refuse to allow it, forcing solo travellers to pay an inflated price. The official rates set by the government are blatantly ignored and the whole experience turns into yet another frustrating battle over prices.
After weeks of dealing with scams, inflated prices, and constant haggling, I simply didn’t have the patience for it anymore. Paying over $30 just for a boat ride, plus the temple’s entrance fee, felt absurd—so I let it go. I know skipping a major site might sound ridiculous to you, but burnout is real when traveling in Egypt. Many other backpackers I met in Aswan felt the same way, skipping this temple completely, exhausted by the constant hassle. One can only hope that, one day, Egyptians will understand how their behaviour just ends up pushing independent travellers away.
Unfinished Obelisk
The Unfinished Obelisk in Aswan offers a fascinating look into ancient Egyptian stone-working techniques. Carved directly into the bedrock of a granite quarry, this massive structure, which intended to be the largest obelisk ever built, was abandoned when cracks appeared in the stone. Had it been completed, it would have stood 42 metres tall and weighed over 1,200 tonnes.
Nubian Villages
A visit to the Nubian villages offers a glimpse into a unique and vibrant culture that has thrived along the Nile for thousands of years. The Nubians, an indigenous people of southern Egypt and northern Sudan, have a distinct language, traditions, and a history deeply tied to the river. Their villages, often painted in bright blues, pinks, and yellows, create a striking contrast against the desert landscape. Visit Elephantine Island and Gharb Soheil, where you can stroll through colourful streets, visit local markets, and enjoy a bit of Nubian culture. Just keep in mind that these villages have become pretty touristy hence it doesn’t feel like a very authentic experience.
- Colourful Nubian Houses in Elephantine Island
- Colourful Nubian Houses in Elephantine Island
- Colourful Nubian Houses in Elephantine Island
Sail on a Felucca at Sunset
Experience the Nile at its most peaceful by taking a traditional felucca ride, especially at sunset. If this is something you want to do, don’t worry—you won’t have to look for a boat for long. Within seconds of walking along the river, someone will insistently offer (or rather, push) you onto theirs.
- Traditional felucca
- Traditional feluccas on the Nile
- Children that paddle along the boats trying to get money
This was yet another experience I had planned to do but ultimately skipped, simply because I couldn’t be bothered with the endless haggling and inflated prices. Negotiation is unavoidable, and after a while, it just gets exhausting. If you do want to go, be prepared to bargain hard or try to join forces with other travellers to split the cost.
Where to Stay in Aswan on a Budget
I spent a few nights at the hostel Go Inn Backpackers, a solid budget option that I’d definitely recommend. They also offer some affordable tours, which can be helpful for reaching places that are harder to get to on your own. It’s a bit far from the city centre, making it quieter and a great spot to meet fellow travellers, something that can be rare in Egypt.
- Relaxing by the Nile at Go Inn Backpackers Hostel
- Views of the Nile from the Hostel
For an even more peaceful experience, I highly recommend spending a couple of nights in one of the guesthouses on Elephantine Island, right in the middle of the Nile. The atmosphere there is incredibly relaxing, and it feels worlds away from the chaos of the city. A public ferry, which costs 10 EGP, runs regularly between Aswan and the island, making it easy to get back and forth.
How I Left Aswan: Kom Ombo and Edfu Temple Detour
After spending a few days in Aswan, it was time to face the dreaded journey back to Luxor. Still traumatised from the previous train ride, that option was completely off the table – I needed an alternative.
I had planned to visit some temples along the way, but by this point, I already knew how difficult it would be to do it independently. Luckily, the hostel I was staying in Aswan offered a transport option for $20, which included a van ride to Luxor with stops at Kom Ombo and Edfu Temples. It was by far the best choice, much cheaper than the train, and I’d finally get to visit these temples without the usual hassle.
- Kom Ombo Temple
- Edfu Temple
Final Thoughts on Aswan
Unlike my time in Luxor, I found a certain charm in Aswan that allowed me to find peace amidst the chaos. While the constant pressure of haggling and scams can be tiring, Aswan’s slower pace of life offered moments of quiet. My favourite part of the visit was undoubtedly the two days I spent on Elephantine Island, where I was able to relax by the Nile, surrounded by silence, and dive into a good book. The tranquility there was a welcome contrast to the constant noise of Egypt.
Aswan also brought me one of the most unforgettable experiences of my journey: the visit to Abu Simbel. The grandeur of the temples, carved from the mountainside, left me truly in awe.
In the end, Aswan became a much-needed break, and despite some frustrations along the way, it’s a place that left me with memories of calm, serenity, and a glimpse into the rich culture of the region.
Want to Continue to Explore Egypt Independently?
If you’re planning a solo adventure across Egypt and want more tips, itineraries, and budget travel advice, check out my How to Backpack Egypt Independently: A Budget Travel Guide. This comprehensive guide includes all the information you need to travel Egypt on your own, from must-see sites to tips on getting around on a budget. Whether you’re exploring the Pyramids in Giza, trekking through the Sinai Peninsula, or relaxing in Siwa Oasis, this guide will help you make the most of your Egyptian adventure.