How to Visit Luxor Independently on a Budget

Luxor is often called the world’s greatest open-air museum due to its incredible archaeological sites. As a solo traveller, you can experience this ancient city independently without needing a tour. In this guide, we’ll show you how to visit Luxor on a budget, navigate its famous temples and tombs, and explore the Valley of the Kings, all while keeping your costs down and avoiding expensive group tours.

Luxor stands on the site of ancient Thebes, once the grand capital of Egypt during the height of its power. For over 1,500 years, Thebes was the heart of the New Kingdom (1550–1070 BCE), the era of Egypt’s most famous pharaohs, including Hatshepsut, Amenhotep III, and Ramses II. It was a city of immense wealth, religious significance, and architectural marvels, home to the vast temple complexes, where pharaohs legitimised their rule in the eyes of the gods.

On the opposite bank of the Nile, the vast Theban Necropolis served as the eternal resting place for Egypt’s elite. The Valley of the Kings, hidden among the rugged desert cliffs, became the burial ground of powerful rulers while the Valley of the Queens housed the wives and children of the Pharaohs.

More than just a political and religious centre, Thebes was deeply woven into Egyptian mythology. It was dedicated to Amun-Ra, the supreme god of the New Kingdom, and the continuous expansion of its temples reflected the city’s growing influence. However, as Egypt’s power declined, Thebes fell into ruin, its temples buried under layers of sand and time. Today, Luxor stands as a living museum, where ancient history is etched into every stone, waiting to be explored.

Pro Budget Tip: Buy the tickets online to all the ancient sites to avoid the queues.

How to Get to Luxor on a Budget

There are plenty of ways to reach Luxor from Cairo, including day trains, night trains, and various bus companies. I took a 10-hour night bus with GoBus, which cost me around €10. It was a budget-friendly option, but if you prefer more comfort, the sleeper train is also a popular choice, although a lot more expensive.

What to See in the East Bank Indeoendently

The East Bank of Luxor is home to some of the most iconic ancient sites, where history comes to life through its magnificent temples. Here are some of the sites you shouldn’t miss.

Karnak Temple Complex

Karnak Temple, located on the East Bank of the Nile in Luxor, was the principal religious centre of ancient Egypt, dedicated to the god Amun-Ra. Construction began in the Middle Kingdom, around 2000 BCE, but it was during the New Kingdom that the temple grew into a vast complex under pharaohs like Thutmose III and Ramses II. Over 2,000 years, successive rulers added monumental structures, including the famous Hypostyle Hall, which boasts 134 towering columns, and several pylons, obelisks, and chapels.

The temple complex spans over 200 acres, making it the largest religious building in Egypt and one of the largest in the world today. Karnak symbolised Egypt’s religious and political power, serving as both a place of worship and a platform for pharaohs to immortalise their reigns through inscriptions and statues. Its vast scale and intricate carvings made it one of the most impressive sites of ancient Egypt.

The best time to visit the Karnak Temple Complex to avoid the crowds is at sunrise. You’ll have a more peaceful experience as the site gradually comes to life with the morning light. Plan to spend around 2-3 hours exploring the vast complex. While there are some informative signs throughout, you can also hire a guide outside the entrance if you’d like to learn more about the history and significance of the site. There’s also a nightly Sound and Light Show that narrates the history of Thebes, the temple complex, and its gods, with dramatic lighting effects illuminating the ancient structures.

Avenue of the Sphinxes

After visiting the Karnak Temple Complex, take a stroll down the Avenue of the Sphinxes, which leads you all the way to Luxor Temple. This ancient pathway, once used for religious processions, is lined with hundreds of sphinxes, each with a human head and a lion’s body. The avenue was recently restored, and walking along it offers a unique opportunity to experience a part of ancient Thebes as it once was. As you make your way towards Luxor Temple, you’ll be transported back in time, imagining the grand ceremonies that would have taken place here.

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple, one of the most significant temples of ancient Egypt, was built on the East Bank of the Nile and dedicated to the rejuvenation of kingship rather than a specific deity. Unlike other temples that focused on worshipping gods, Luxor Temple was believed to be the place where pharaohs were crowned and their divine legitimacy reinforced. Constructed primarily by Amenhotep III in the 14th century BCE and later expanded by Ramses II, the temple showcases grand pylons, colossal statues, and intricate carvings that highlight its importance in Egyptian religious and political life.

One of its most striking features is the grand entrance, marked by a massive pylon adorned with battle scenes of Ramses II and flanked by towering statues of the pharaoh. Originally, two obelisks stood at the entrance, but today, only one remains, while the other was gifted to France and now stands in Place de la Concorde in Paris. Over the centuries, Luxor Temple remained an important religious site, even being used as a Roman military base and later as a place of worship for early Christians and Muslims. A mosque, built over part of the temple during the medieval period, still stands today, demonstrating the site’s continuous significance throughout history.

The best time to visit Luxor Temple is in the late afternoon when the sun casts a golden glow over the ancient stone, creating a magical atmosphere. However, for an enchanting experience, consider visiting at night as well when the temple is beautifully illuminated. The towering statues and intricate carvings take on a dramatic presence under the lights.

Museums

The Luxor Museum offers a more intimate look at Egypt’s history, showcasing a collection of artefacts, including statues and mummies. I visited hoping for a quiet escape from the busy temples, but it turned out to be just as crowded. The museum itself is quite small, with no explanatory signs to provide context for the exhibits. Everything feels very outdated, as if it was designed in the early 90s and never updated since, giving it a somewhat neglected atmosphere. In my opinion, given the entry price, it doesn’t offer enough value to be a must-visit.

The Mummification Museum offers fascinating insights into the ancient Egyptian process of mummification. With well-preserved artefacts and informative displays, it’s a great place to learn about the rituals and beliefs surrounding death and the afterlife.

How to Visit the West Bank Without a Tour

After speaking with many travellers, I found that one of the main reasons they book a tour to the West Bank is the lack of clear information on how to get to each site independently. The sites are spread far apart, and with no public transport available, most visitors opt for a tour for convenience. Some travellers choose to rent a bicycle and ride between sites – a budget-friendly option at around €7 for a day’s rental – but keep in mind that cycling can be exhausting, especially during the hottest hours of the day.

However, visiting the West Bank independently can be even easier, cheaper and with a lot less effort. Here’s how I did it: Instead of hiring a taxi for the entire day like most people, I simply used the inDrive app (similar to Uber) to call for a ride whenever I needed to move to the next site. This way, I had more flexibility and avoided overpaying for a full-day taxi.

Here are some of my costs for the longest rides that day. My hotel was already on the West Bank, but if yours is on the East Bank, I recommend taking the public ferry across, which costs 20 EGP around 0.40€, and ordering a taxi from there – fares will be much cheaper than arranging transport from the East Bank.

As you can see it’s a perfectly affordable option and, of course, if you’re sharing the car with someone else, then it becomes even cheaper.

The biggest advantage of exploring without a tour is the freedom to visit sites without the crowds. Most tours follow a rigid schedule – starting early at the Valley of the Kings, visiting the same tombs, then moving on to the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, and so on. But by planning your own itinerary, you can avoid the rush and experience these incredible places without being surrounded by hundreds of other visitors.

That said, the West Bank is home to many archaeological sites, and visiting them all would take several days. You’ll need to prioritise the ones that interest you most, especially since each site requires a separate ticket. After doing my research, I selected the ones that appealed to me, which is a very personal choice. Below, I’ve also listed other places of interest that I didn’t visit, in case they’re of interest to you.

Valley of the Kings

The Valley of the Kings is one of the most famous archaeological sites in Egypt. It served as the royal burial ground for Pharaohs of the New Kingdom (c. 1539–1075 BCE), including some of the most iconic rulers of ancient Egypt, such as Tutankhamun, Ramses II, and Seti I. The valley is home to over 60 tombs, which were carved into the rock to provide the deceased rulers with a secure resting place for their journey into the afterlife.

The tombs in the Valley of the Kings are renowned for their elaborate decorations and inscriptions, which depict scenes from the pharaohs’ lives, religious rituals, and their journey through the afterlife. The tombs were originally constructed with great care, designed to protect the mummies and their valuable belongings from tomb robbers. Despite this, many tombs were looted in antiquity, though some, like that of Tutankhamun, were discovered largely intact, offering incredible insight into the burial practices and wealth of the pharaohs.

Which Tombs Should I Visit?

With the entrance ticket, you have access to any 3 tombs, except for the special ones, such as the tombs of Tutankhamun, Seti I, and Ramses VI. If you’re on a tour, you’ll be taken to the same set of tombs, and you won’t need to choose which ones to visit. However, if you’re visiting independently, I recommend doing some research beforehand to know which tickets to buy, as the special tombs require separate tickets.

I’d also advise purchasing your ticket online for two reasons: first, you’ll be able to scan your ticket and skip the queue, saving time; second, while guards punch holes in paper tickets at the entrance, they can’t do that with your phone, meaning there’s no way for them to track how many tombs you’ve visited. The general ticket allows access to 3 tombs, but I managed to visit 5, and if I wanted, I could have visited all of them. However, it does get repetitive after a while. So here is some insight into some of the 7 tombs I visited.

Tomb of Seti I (KV17)

The Tomb of Seti I is one of the most extraordinary and beautifully decorated tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Known for its stunning artwork and intricate carvings, it is the longest tomb in the valley, extending over 130 metres. Seti I, the father of Ramses II, was one of Egypt’s most powerful pharaohs, and his tomb reflects his grandeur. The walls of the tomb are adorned with vivid scenes depicting various religious texts, including the Book of the Dead and Scenes of the Afterlife, along with detailed illustrations of the gods and pharaohs in their journey to the afterlife. The tomb’s artwork is considered some of the finest in Egypt, with exceptional colour and detail. The tomb is rarely open to the public due to its fragility, and entry is expensive and typically restricted to a limited number of visitors.

I was incredibly fortunate to experience this tomb all alone, allowing me to admire the intricate artwork and vivid colours without any interruption. While the ticket is quite pricey, I definitely felt it was worth the cost, and it ended up being my favourite tomb by far.

Tomb of Ramses V and VI (KV 9)

The Tomb of Ramses V and VI also requires an additional ticket, but since it’s only a few euros, I highly recommend purchasing it. In my opinion, it’s great value for money since this tomb is one of the largest and most spectacular in the Valley of the Kings. Originally constructed for Ramses V, it was later extended for his successor, Ramses VI, who was also buried there. The ceilings are particularly striking, adorned with astronomical and religious symbols. Due to the additional ticket cost, it’s much less crowded than other tombs, providing a more peaceful experience. When I visited, there were only two other people, so I had plenty of space to fully appreciate the grandeur and beauty of this remarkable tomb.

After visiting the Tombs of Ramses V and VI and Seti I, I decided to explore the tombs included with the general ticket. I managed to visit five of them before I got a bit tired of it. I must admit, after seeing the most stunning tombs, the others felt somewhat underwhelming. They were also very crowded, with people pushing in every direction, which, in my opinion, really diminished the experience.

I also opted not to visit the famous Tutankhamun’s Tomb due to its overwhelming popularity. During my research, I found it a bit disappointing – famous for its treasures, which are no longer there, except for the pharaoh’s mummy. The tomb itself is quite empty, with only a few wall paintings at the end, which, in my opinion, don’t compare to the incredible artwork in Seti I’s tomb. So, I chose to save the money for that one instead. However, if you don’t mind the extra cost and elbowing your way through the crowds, it’ll likely be worth the visit.

What’s the Best Time to Visit

I arrived at the Valley of the Kings around 6:45 am, thinking I’d be one of the first there. Well, I was wrong. Apparently, the tours start a lot earlier than I expected. You live and you learn, I guess. While it wasn’t exactly empty, it was still a lot quieter than it was when I left around 9 am, when the place had turned into a mini tourist frenzy. So, if I were to go again, I’d either show up right at 6 am when it opens and just accept it’ll get busy soon, or more likely, I’d go in the afternoon. All the tours seem to hit the valley in the morning, so I’m betting the afternoon would be much less chaotic and a lot more peaceful.

Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut

The Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut is one of the most striking and well-preserved monuments in Luxor, standing out for its unique architecture and dramatic setting. Built for the only female pharaoh of ancient Egypt, it’s a breathtaking sight with its long, terraced structure, rising from the desert floor against the backdrop of steep cliffs. The temple is dedicated to Hatshepsut’s reign and her divine birth, and it’s adorned with intricate reliefs that tell the story of her life and achievements.

Since I visited the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut after the Valley of the Kings, like most tours do, it was already quite crowded. To avoid the crowds and experience the best light, I’d recommend visiting at sunrise. This way, you’ll enjoy a more peaceful atmosphere and the temple in its most stunning light.

Medinet Habu (Temple of Ramses III)

Medinet Habu is one of the most impressive and well-preserved temples in Luxor, dedicated to the great Ramses III. Built during the 20th Dynasty, it served as a mortuary temple and was designed to honour the king’s reign, his military victories, and the gods. The temple’s most striking feature is its massive walls, adorned with intricate reliefs depicting the pharaoh’s battles.

This temple is one of my personal favourite in Egypt, especially because of its sheer size and the fact that it’s much less crowded. This peaceful atmosphere allows you to explore its vast courtyards, pillared halls, and intricate and colourful decorations in a more peaceful setting.

Other Places of Interest

Valley of the Queens – This necropolis served as the burial site for the wives and children of Pharaohs during the New Kingdom. The valley is home to around 80 tombs, with intricate wall paintings and well-preserved carvings that provide a glimpse into the lives of royal women from ancient Egypt. It offers a quieter, more peaceful experience, allowing visitors to appreciate the beauty and significance of these tombs in relative solitude. The tomb of Nefertari, wife of Ramses II, is the most famous and considered one of the finest examples of Egyptian tomb art. However, this tomb was closed during my visit (Feb 2025) and that’s I ended up skipping the Valley of the Queens.

Ramseum – The mortuary temple of Ramses II, also known as Ramses the Great. Although now partially ruined, it remains one of the most significant temples on the West Bank. The temple was once grand, with towering pylons and walls adorned with vivid reliefs and scenes of Ramses’ military triumphs. One of the most famous features of the site was the colossal statue of Ramses II, which once stood 20 metres tall but now lies shattered.

Tomb of the Nobles – A group of tombs belonging to high-ranking officials, scribes, and priests from the New Kingdom period. Located on a hill just outside the Valley of the Kings, these tombs are less visited but contain some of the most remarkable artwork in Egypt. The tombs feature colourful and well-preserved wall paintings that depict scenes of daily life, including agricultural activities, religious ceremonies, and royal visits.

Deir el-Medina – The village of the artisans who worked on the tombs in the Valley of the Kings. This small, well-preserved settlement offers a fascinating look into the lives of the craftsmen who created the royal tombs. Their tombs are decorated with intricate scenes, often showing their daily life, religious practices, and family dynamics. The village itself also has remains of homes, streets, and workshops, giving visitors a sense of how the workers lived and worked.

Colossi of Memnon – Two giant statues of the pharaoh Amenhotep III, standing proudly at the entrance of his now-destroyed mortuary temple. Each statue originally stood about 18 metres tall and depicted Amenhotep in a seated position. Though the statues have weathered significantly over the centuries, they still dominate the landscape.

Howard Carter’s House – The former home of the British archaeologist Howard Carter, who discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922. The house has been preserved with many of Carter’s original belongings, including photographs, maps, and tools used in his excavation.

Entrance Tickets Prices in 2025

You can buy the tickets online here

Other Popular Things to Do in Luxor

Apart from all the archaeological sites, there are plenty of other activities to enjoy while in Luxor. The most popular experiences include the breathtaking sunrise hot air balloon ride, which offers stunning panoramic views of the Valley of the Kings and the surrounding desert landscape. Another highlight is sailing the Nile on a traditional felucca at sunset, where you can relax and take in the serene beauty of the river. Additionally, visitors can explore the bustling local markets, take a stroll along the Nile, or enjoy a traditional Egyptian meal.

Reflection: Why I’d never go back to Luxor

Luxor is home to some of the most jaw-dropping ancient sites I’ve ever explored. The temples and tombs truly live up to the hype and standing before them feels like stepping into another world. But as breathtaking as they are, I can honestly say I’ll never go back. Luxor is the kind of place that’s incredible to see once, but the overall experience of being there? Terrible.

Walking anywhere – by the Nile, through town, even near your hotel – without being hassled is nearly impossible. Within seconds, someone is trying to sell you something, scam you, or drag you into some bizarre interaction. Scams are everywhere, sometimes so absurd you can’t even figure out what the end goal is. One of the most common ones happened to me multiple times, and I heard similar stories from other travellers. A man would approach and say:

“Hey! How are you? Good to see you again! I’m the chef at your hotel.”

It was obviously nonsense – I’m a backpacker, not staying anywhere with a chef. I’d brush them off and walk away, but it always left me wondering: What was the actual scam here? And that’s just one example. There were weirder encounters, more aggressive tactics, and, of course, the constant harassment.

If you think visiting the ancient sites gives you a break from all this, think again. The hassle only intensifies. Pushy vendors, relentless scammers, and even the very people who work there (guards, ticket sellers) join in on trying to scam you too. The monuments are incredible, but the experience of being there is exhausting.

As someone who dreamed of seeing these places since childhood, it was deeply disappointing. Egypt’s history deserves better, and so do its visitors. I truly hope that one day, both locals and the government realise that this culture of relentless scamming and harassment only hurts their tourism industry in the long run.

Want to Continue to Explore Egypt Independently?

If you’re planning a solo adventure across Egypt and want more tips, itineraries, and budget travel advice, check out my How to Backpack Egypt Independently: A Budget Travel Guide. This comprehensive guide includes all the information you need to travel Egypt on your own, from must-see sites to tips on getting around on a budget. Whether you’re exploring the Pyramids in Giza, trekking through the Sinai Peninsula, or relaxing in Aswan, this guide will help you make the most of your Egyptian adventure.