Tucked away in the far west of Uzbekistan, Khiva is a perfectly preserved Silk Road city that feels like stepping into a living museum. Despite its remote location, Khiva is absolutely worth the journey, especially for budget travellers. It’s compact and easy to explore on foot, most of the sights are concentrated within the city walls, and you’ll find affordable accommodation and food options throughout. In this travel guide, I’ll show you exactly how to get to Khiva, how to explore it independently, where to eat and stay, and the must-see landmarks that will make you fall in love with this desert gem.
With its towering mud-brick walls, turquoise-domed mosques, and maze-like alleyways, Khiva’s old town – the Ichan Kala – is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that still retains its centuries-old charm. Whether you’re wandering through its quiet courtyards at sunrise or watching the sun set over the minarets, the city offers a truly magical atmosphere that’s hard to find elsewhere.
How to Get to Khiva on a Budget
Reaching Khiva used to be a bit of a challenge due to its remote location in western Uzbekistan, but things have become much easier in recent years with the addition of a train station serving the city. That said, there are still far fewer trains to Khiva compared to more connected cities like Bukhara or Samarkand, so it’s important to plan ahead.
From Bukhara, the journey takes around 8 hours, while from Tashkent it’s over 12 hours. For longer rides, I recommend booking a 2nd class sleeper (kupe) ticket for a more comfortable experience. You can check schedules and purchase tickets through the official Uzbek Railways website.
Khiva’s Train Station
My Soviet Train from Khiva to Tashkent
Corridor in 2nd Class (kupe)
2nd Class (kupe) Compartiment
How to Get Around in Khiva
Getting around Khiva is incredibly easy. The Itchan Kala (old city) is compact, walkable, and completely enclosed by ancient mud-brick walls. You won’t need any transport once you’re inside, as all the major sights are within a short walking distance from each other. In fact, wandering through its narrow alleyways on foot is half the charm of exploring Khiva. If you’re staying outside the old city walls, you can easily walk in. Most guesthouses and budget hotels are within a 10-minute walk from the main gates.
Top Things to See in Khiva
Khiva’s main attraction is its walled inner city, Itchan Kala, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that feels like stepping into a living museum. Enclosed by ancient mud-brick walls, this atmospheric maze of narrow alleyways, turquoise-domed mosques, and intricately tiled madrassas is a joy to get lost in. It’s the kind of place made for slow wandering, where every corner reveals something beautiful – be it a quiet courtyard, a hidden minaret, or a workshop selling handmade carpets and ceramics.
While you can walk through the city gates for free, you’ll need to purchase a ticket to access most of the monuments and historical sites inside. The general entrance ticket can be purchased at the main Ata Darvaza Gate (Western Gate) and should cost around 150,000 Uzbek Som (around €12). It’s valid for 48 hours, giving you plenty of time to explore.
Pro Tip: This is one of the most touristy spots in Uzbekistan, but it doesn’t have to feel that way. Visit at sunrise, and you might just have the silent, golden-lit streets all to yourself.
Empty Streets of the Itchan Kala at Sunrise
Empty Streets of the Itchan Kala at Sunrise
Empty Streets of the Itchan Kala at Sunrise
The old city is compact and easily walkable, but there’s more to see than first meets the eye. So take your time. Sit for a while in a quiet madrasah courtyard. Climb a minaret. Let yourself drift. Below are some of the must-see highlights to look out for.
Kalta Minor Minaret
Arguably the most iconic landmark in Khiva, the Kalta Minor Minaret stands at the heart of Itchan Kala, just inside the Ata Darvaza Gate. Its striking, unfinished structure, covered in vivid turquoise and blue tiles, was meant to be the tallest minaret in Central Asia. However, construction was abruptly halted after the death of its patron, Muhammad Amin Khan, in 1855, leaving the minaret at just 29 metres high. Despite never being completed, its colourful and wide form makes it one of the most photogenic spots in Khiva. You’ll find it right next to the Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa, making it a perfect first stop as you enter the old town.
Entrance to the Kunya Ark Fortress and Kalta Minor Minaret
Kalta Minor Minaret
Kunya Ark Fortress
Located within the walls of Itchan Kala, the Kunya Ark Fortress was once the royal residence of Khiva’s khans. Built in the 17th century, this fortified complex functioned as a city within a city, containing a harem, stables, arsenal, mosque, and even a throne room.
Inside the Fortress
Throne Room
Climb up to the watchtower for panoramic views over the old city, it’s especially a great place for sunset. The fortress is included in the general entrance ticket to Itchan Kala.
Views of Islam Khodja from the Watchtower
Views at Sunset from the Watchtower
Views of Kalta Minaret from the Watchtower
Juma Mosque
Unlike the ornate, tile-covered mosques found elsewhere in Uzbekistan, Juma Mosque in Khiva stands out for its unique and minimalist design. Originally built in the 10th century and rebuilt in the 18th century, this atmospheric mosque is supported by 213 wooden columns, some of which date back over a thousand years. The forest of carved pillars creates a mystical, almost meditative atmosphere inside, a peaceful escape from the heat and crowds outside. There are no grand domes or elaborate decorations here, just timeless simplicity and silence. It’s one of Khiva’s most memorable sites and is included in the general ticket.
Juma Mosque
Juma Mosque
Tash Khauli Palace
Built in the 1830s as a more elaborate replacement for the Konya Ark, the Tash Khauli Palace was the royal residence of Khiva’s Khans during the 19th century. This sprawling complex features over 150 rooms arranged around several courtyards, including the harem, reception hall, and court of justice. The palace is a stunning example of Khivan architecture, with intricately carved wooden pillars, dazzling blue tile-work, and decorative ceilings that showcase the craftsmanship of the time. The palace is one of the highlights within Itchan Kala and is covered by the general entrance ticket.
Islam Khodja Complex
The Islam Khodja Complex is one of Khiva’s most striking and historically significant landmarks. Built in the early 20th century, it consists of a madrasa and a towering minaret, which is the tallest in Khiva. Standing at 45 meters, the Islam Khodja Minaret offers breathtaking views of the city and surrounding area, making it an essential stop for panoramic photos. The accompanying madrasah, though smaller in comparison, is also beautifully decorated, with elaborately carved wooden doors and ornamental arches. This complex adds a more modern chapter to Khiva’s rich architectural history. There’s an extra ticket to access to the top of the minaret.
Islam Khodja Madrasah
Islam Khodja Minaret
Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum
The Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum is one of Khiva’s most revered and visually striking sites. Dedicated to the legendary figure Pahlavon Mahmud, a revered poet, wrestler, and Sufi master, this mausoleum stands as a symbol of spiritual and cultural significance for the people of Khiva. Built in the 14th century and later expanded in the 18th century, the mausoleum is an exquisite example of Khivan architecture, with a stunning blue dome and intricate tilework that decorates the exterior. Inside, you’ll find the tomb of Pahlavon Mahmud as well as the tombs of other notable figures. This mausoleum is a key site to visit within the Ichan Kala but it requires an additional ticket you can purchase at the entrance.
City Walls
Khiva’s defensive walls are incredibly well-preserved, and walking along them provides a unique perspective of the city. Head up at sunset for an unforgettable view of the old city bathed in golden light.
Walking in the City’s Walls
Walking in the City’s Walls
Walking in the City’s Walls
Where to Stay on a Budget
Khiva offers a wide range of accommodation options, catering to all budgets, and the number of choices continues to grow as Uzbekistan becomes an increasingly popular tourist destination. Whether you’re looking for budget-friendly hostels, mid-range hotels, or luxury stays, you’ll find something to suit your needs on the usual platforms like Booking.com.
In Autumn 2022, I stayed at Carousel, a welcoming, budget-friendly hostel conveniently located outside the walled city not too far from the East Entrance of the Itchan Kala.
Where to Eat on a Budget
Khiva offers a range of dining options that let you experience the traditional flavours of Uzbekistan in unique settings. Here are some of the best places to eat while exploring this ancient city:
Where to Go After Khiva
After exploring the wonders of Khiva, you might be wondering where to head next in Uzbekistan. Luckily, this country is filled with fascinating destinations, each with its own unique charm. Here are a few ideas for your next adventure: