Tucked away in the heart of Central Sulawesi, the Togean Islands, Indonesia, are a hidden paradise for travellers seeking peace, adventure, and off-the-beaten-path experiences. Budget backpacking Togean Islands is an unforgettable way to explore turquoise waters, vibrant coral reefs, and pristine white-sand beaches without the crowds found in Bali or Lombok.
Unlike more touristy destinations, the Togeans remain largely undiscovered, offering independent travellers the freedom to snorkel in crystal-clear lagoons, wander through traditional villages, or simply relax on quiet beaches.
In this guide, I’ll cover everything you need to know for budget backpacking the Togean Islands, Sulawesi, from how to get there and where to stay, to moving around the islands, must-see activities, and practical tips to make your trip smooth and memorable.
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Why Visit the Togean Islands
The Togean Islands are a hidden gem in Central Sulawesi, offering a rare mix of natural beauty, tranquillity, and authentic local life. With dozens of islands scattered across the Gulf of Tomini, there’s something for every type of traveller. From vibrant coral reefs perfect for snorkelling and diving, to quiet villages where life moves at a completely different pace.
What makes the Togeans truly special is how unspoiled and remote they still feel. Unlike Indonesia’s more popular destinations, the islands haven’t been overrun by tourism, so you can enjoy beaches, lagoons, and underwater landscapes largely to yourself. The islands also offer a glimpse into traditional fishing communities and local culture, making every stop more than just a scenic photo opportunity.
Whether you’re chasing adventure, seeking relaxation, or looking for a slow-travel experience off the beaten path, the Togean Islands reward those who take the time to explore and those willing to embrace a little unpredictability along the way.
Best Time to Visit the Togean Islands
The Togean Islands can be visited year-round, but the dry season from May to September is generally considered the best time, with sunnier skies and calmer seas. High season, especially July and August, tends to be busy, and resorts often fill up, making it harder to secure accommodation and enjoy the peaceful, remote vibe of the islands.
I visited in early January, which is technically the rainy season. However, the weather was still very pleasant with just a few short storms here and there, mostly in the evenings or at night, but nothing that stopped me from exploring or enjoying the islands. Because it was low season, my resort in Malenge was almost empty, just me and another traveller, and even the nearby resorts weren’t full.
I loved this experience because it felt like being stranded on a remote island, almost alone with the locals. It gave a sense of true solitude and connection with the surroundings. I suspect visiting in high season would feel very different, with crowded resorts and busy beaches, which would take away some of the magic of the islands’ peaceful charm.
Overview Togean Islands: Which Island is Right For You
The Togean Islands aren’t just one island but an archipelago of over 50 islands, each with its own character, attractions, and level of accessibility. Picking the right island(s) to visit depends on what kind of experience you want, your budget, and how much time you have.
The lower islands, like Kadidiri, Bomba, and Batudaka, tend to have the most budget-friendly resorts and are closest to Ampana, which makes travel logistics easier. The downside is that some of the more popular day trips are a bit farther away, which can add extra time and cost.
Una-Una, on the other hand, is very far from the other islands and has just one resort. It’s considered the best spot in the Togeans for diving, but reaching it is expensive since the only option is the resort’s private boat. This makes Una-Una less budget-friendly and more suited to travellers who prioritise diving over cost.
Malenge is a great choice for a base island, sitting in the middle of the archipelago. From here, it’s easier to reach snorkelling in reefs 1-5, the jellyfish lake, and Pulau Papan, a small Bajo village. Malenge also offers accommodation for all budgets, from very basic homestays in Pulau Papan to budget resorts and more upscale options.
Ultimately, the islands you pick depend on your priorities – whether it’s budget, isolation, diving, snorkelling, or access to activities and day trips. I decided to pick Malenge as my base to give me the best balance between convenience, activities, and accommodation options.
For a more detailed overview of transport options and a full list of resorts available in the Togean Islands, check out this website.
How to Get There Independently
Reaching the Togean Islands requires planning – there’s no direct flight or fast route, and boats run on fixed but limited schedules. Most travellers enter the archipelago either from Ampana in Central Sulawesi or all the way from Gorontalo in the north.
From Ampana to Wakai and Beyond:
The main jumping-off point for the Togeans is Wakai, the central harbour in the island group. From Ampana, you have a few options, depending on how much time you have and where you’re staying:
Keep in mind that boat schedules often shift due to weather or mechanical issues, and ticket prices and departure times are usually only confirmed on the day at the harbour. These boats are by no means luxurious: they feel like a sauna, with barely-opening windows, no air conditioning, and fans that often don’t work. I took the public boat from Ampana straight to Malenge, and it was honestly the longest seven hours of my life. The boat was scorchingly hot, crammed full of people and all sorts of packages, and the rough seas made some passengers sick, leaving puke bags everywhere. Not exactly a fun ride, but part of the reality to reach the Togeans.
From Gorontalo to Wakai:
If you’re coming from Gorontalo, there’s a ferry called Tuna Tomini that links the city to Wakai:
This ferry isn’t luxurious: seating is basic and many travellers choose a mattress space if they want slightly more comfort for the overnight journey, but it’s the only regular north–south connection between the Togeans and Gorontalo.
Tips for Getting Around Once You Arrive
Once in Wakai, most islands don’t have regular public ferries. Instead, resorts and local boat operators will take you to your destination, often with an extra charge. Many resorts offer pickup boats from Wakai to their private jetties, hence the importance of booking your accommodation ahead.
There are no ATMs in the Togean Islands, so bring enough cash for your entire stay and any boat transfers.
Budget Accommodation Options
Unlike larger towns in Sulawesi, the Togean Islands have no restaurants or cafés, so all your meals will be provided by your chosen resort or homestay. Most accommodations include all meals in the nightly rate, making it easy to plan your budget. Don’t expect fancy dining: meals are simple, traditional Indonesian staples, such as nasi goreng, fresh fish, white rice, vegetables, fruits, and the occasional pancakes for breakfast. Drinking water, tea, and instant coffee are usually unlimited, but the focus is on practicality rather than luxury.
All the resorts here are very basic. Bungalows are mostly made of wood, often with a hammock on the porch. Air conditioning or fans are rare, as most places only have electricity for a few hours in the evening via generators. Similarly, cell service is nonexistent, and Wi-Fi, if available, is usually only accessible for a few hours per day and sometimes for an extra fee. This setup makes the Togeans perfect for a digital detox, allowing you to fully disconnect and immerse yourself in the islands’ natural beauty.
In short, staying on the Togean Islands is about simplicity, serenity, and enjoying the surroundings. The focus isn’t on luxury, but on the experience of being surrounded by pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and slow island life.
Sera Beach Resort in Malenge
The Turquoise-water Bay at Sera Beach Resort in Malenge
For my stay in Malenge, I chose Sera Beach Resort, mainly because it’s one of the few resorts located right on the beach in Malenge, alongside Sandy Bay Resort. I had imagined having a bungalow with a hammock by the sand, and it didn’t disappoint. I truly enjoyed my time there. The staff were incredibly friendly, and the food was delicious, probably the best I had during my seven weeks in Sulawesi. Since it was low season, I had the entire resort almost to myself, which made the experience even more special. Another perk of travelling in low season was that the staff kindly gave me a Wi-Fi voucher for free (usually paid during high season) and even lent me a snorkel mask at no extra cost, which was perfect since I hadn’t brought one.
What to Do in the Togean Islands
Most activities in the Togean Islands that take you beyond your resort require a boat, although you can of course snorkel and swim right off the beach of your accommodation. It’s also possible to go on short hikes around Malenge itself, perfect for sunsets and quiet mornings.
Boat trips can become costly if you’re travelling solo, but a perk of staying at resorts like Sera Beach or nearby ones is that you can often team up with other guests to share the cost for snorkelling trips, visits to Pulau Papan, or excursions to reefs.
Snorkelling and Diving Excursions
Snorkelling and diving are the main draws of the Togeans. Reefs 1-5 are easily accessible from Malenge, and for me, reefs 1 and 5 were the favourites, full of colourful coral and tropical fish. Depending which reefs you pick, the boat cost will be different, but for 2 reefs that are far away (like 1 & 5), the cost should be around 800,000IDR.
Mariona Lake – Jellyfish
A visit to the jellyfish lake is truly magical. Millions of two different types of jellyfish float in the dark, very warm, and salty waters, creating an otherworldly experience. Don’t worry about getting stung! These jellyfish have lost their stinging cells over thousands of years of evolution, so they’re completely harmless to humans.
I’d read that in past summers, the lake sometimes had no jellyfish at all because the water got too hot, a reminder of global warming. Luckily, visiting in low season meant it was full of jellyfish, though the water was so warm it felt like a hot tub and could get uncomfortable after a while. Despite that, it remains one of the coolest and most magical experiences of the trip.
Pulau Papan Village
For a taste of local life, consider a trip to Pulau Papan, a small Bajo village nearby. Here you can see traditional stilt houses, meet local fishermen, and experience the daily rhythm of island life. Snorkelling near Pulau Papan is another highlight, with vibrant red corals making it a spectacular spot for underwater exploration.
Overall, the Togeans are less about structured tours and more about choosing your own pace: snorkel, swim, wander the beaches, or just read in a hammock by the water.
Budget & Practical Tips
Traveling in the low season comes with a few perks, not only are there fewer crowds, but prices for accommodation are lower. Accommodation in the Togeans ranges widely depending on your choice of island and resort: homestays in Pulau Papan start around 300k IDR per night, mid-range resorts in Malenge or other islands are typically 400-550k, and more luxury resorts can go up to 800k per person per night or more (note: most resorts charge per person, not per room). Some resorts also charge extra for solo travellers, so if you’re travelling alone, it’s worth confirming this before booking.
Most resorts list their prices on their website. You can check all the resort list as well as their website on this website. But if you’re travelling in low season, it’s often better to message the resort directly on WhatsApp. That’s how I was able to get a lower rate than the website showed.
Boat trips are another cost to consider. Prices depend on distance and can range from 500k to 1,000k IDR per trip. A good way to save is to share boats with other guests going to the same snorkelling spots, Pulau Papan, or reefs.
Another important budget tip: most resorts charge extra for transfers between Wakai harbour and the resort. Unless your resort is on Malenge island and you arrive at the actual Malenge harbour, these transfers are usually not included. Costs can sometimes be steep, up to 800k IDR each way, so check in advance to avoid surprises.
Overall, with careful planning, sharing boats, and booking in low season, the Togean Islands can be a fantastic budget-friendly adventure, even for solo travellers.
Final Thoughts
The Togean Islands are one of Sulawesi’s most remote and magical destinations, offering a rare combination of pristine beaches, vibrant reefs, and slow island life. Travelling here requires a bit of planning, from ferry schedules to boat trips between islands, but the reward is a truly off-the-beaten-path experience that few travellers get to enjoy.
Travelling in low season, as I did, adds an extra layer of magic: fewer crowds, more personal space, and the chance to truly disconnect in a serene environment. Whether it’s snorkelling in reefs 1 and 5, exploring the red corals near Pulau Papan, or floating among millions of jellyfish in the lake, the Togeans offer experiences that feel almost untouched by time.
If you’re planning a trip to Sulawesi, the Togean Islands are a must-visit for travellers who enjoy nature, solitude, and adventure, and are happy to embrace the simplicity and unpredictability of life on these remote islands. For more tips on exploring other places in Sulawesi on a budget and off the beaten path, check out my full Sulawesi guide here.
More Independent Travel in Sulawesi
If you’re travelling through Sulawesi independently, the Togean Islands are just one piece of the puzzle. These posts dive deeper into some of the island’s most remote, rewarding, and lesser-visited regions, all explored without tours and on a backpacker budget: